Registration Codes: This topic is one that confuses many new and experienced breeders alike.
The "F" designation: The "F" represents FILLIAL GENERATION of the cat and when referencing F1, F2, F3, etc. what we are really talking about is how many generations a particular cat is
from the wild ancestor. For example:
F1 is theoretically 50% domestic and 50% Serval or one generation removed from the Serval
F2 is theoretically 75% domestic and 25% Serval and 2 generations removed from the Serval
F3 is theoretically 87.5% domestic and 12.5% Serval and 3 generations removed from the Serval and so on.
Many Savannahs are now the result of Savannah to Savannah breeding, so the percentage may vary from the examples above, with some cats being a higher percent Serval.
The ABCs: These letter codes represent how many generations of Savannah to Savannah breeding are in a particular cats pedigree. An "A" registered cat represent either an F1 which has a Serval sire or any other generation where a cat has one Savannah parent and the other parent is any other breed such as Egyptian Mau, Oriental Shorthair, or a Domestic Shorthair (mixed breed).
Serval x any breed = A registered
A x A, B or C = B where both parents are Savannahs
B x B or C = C where both the parents and grandparents are Savannahs on both sides of the pedigree
C x C = SBT (Stud Book Traditional) where the parents, grandparents and great grand parents are all Savannahs on both sides of the pedigree
ACCLIMATION: When you bring a new kitten or cat home consider that your home is a completely strange environment. There are new sounds, smells, people and possibly other pets. Some cats will adjust quickly while others may need a little more time. Each cat is unique and an individual.
If you have other pets, the newcomer should be isolated. There are no shortcuts here. In general keep them separated for two weeks . This gives the cat time to adjust and alert you to any health issues that may not have been apparent when the cat first arrived. You will want to spend as much time as possible with him or her providing opportunities to play, cuddle and bond.
By now both your current pets and the new cat will have figured out that there is a newcomer. Introduce the new arrival to the household gradually. It may be helpful to take a towel or sleeping pad that the new cat has used out in the main area for the others to smell and get used to. They may become best pals right away or it may take some time. Be patient and always supervise just in case they don't hit it off so well at first.
Even if there are no other cats I recommend confining a new cat to a single room for a few days. This makes them feel more secure while food, water and litter is close by. 
FOOD: It is of utmost importance that you use the SAME food that they are accustomed to. Sudden changes in diet lead to loose stools and an irritable bowel. If you decide to change foods, switch over gradually by mixing a small amount of the new food in with the current diet. Slowly increase the amount of new and decrease the amount of the original over a period of a week or two.
Choose a food that has high quality ingredients, with meat products (not grains or by-products) as the first few ingredients. Cats have specific nutritional needs and in general those needs are not met by feeding generic store brand foods.
Every one of my Savannahs enjoys meat....both cooked and raw. They also enjoy chewing bones. I feed beef raw or cooked, and typically boil chicken and pork. If we have turkey or chicken I use the coarse blades in an old grinder to make fresh food. Savannahs will also do well on a raw diet. There are many Yahoo! groups on this topic or another alternative is to make your own cat food: http://www.catinfo.org/makingcatfood.htm
LITTER BOX: Poor litter box habits are the #1 reason cats are surrendered to shelters. Here are some suggestions learned from experience:
Use the same litter that cat is used to. If you typically use a different brand, mix them together and switch over gradually (just like the food).
- Keep the boxes CLEAN! Cats are clean freaks and would rather poop next to a dirty box then step in it. Boxes should be thoroughly emptied and bleached every week.
- Some cats require two boxes. My queen requires one for urinating and one for bowel movements... period. If she doesn't have two boxes, she will poop on the floor. If your cat is not going in the box, try adding another.
Make sure the box is large enough for your cat. Large cats require large boxes. For cats that "enthusiastically cover", you may want to consider a high-sided or covered box to minimize the amount of litter they scatter within a 3 foot radius.
GROOMING: Cats are pretty much self cleaning machines. They lick, prune and groom themselves and their buddies. If you're lucky you too will be the recipient of sandpaper kisses! One thing they cannot do themselves is trim their claws. A sisal scratch post will aide in shedding (and sharpening) claws, and keep them from scratching your furniture. I find that a good set of nail clippers is also necessary. Some cats don't mind this process while others are subject to the sleep 'n clip method: they sleep while I clip. I have not successfully wrestled a resistant cat for trimming, so do what works! Your veterinarian can also clip their claws if you don't mind stopping in for a visit.
If you are planning on showing your cat I suggest you get them used to having claws trimmed and being bathed at an early age. Yes, cats can be bathed, and unlike most domestic cats, many Savannahs actually enjoy playing in water!
AT THE VET: Some cats don't mind too much, others freak out, but I haven't found a cat that actually enjoys going to the vet. What is important is that you find a veterinarian that cares about your cat as much as you do and is either knowledgeable about hybrid breeds or willing to learn. Hybrid cats should only received killed virus vaccines to minimize any adverse reactions. Please click the link on the "HEALTH" link to read about specific diseases and treatment information. The information is provided for educational purposes only and is not intended to replace a professional consultation or treatment administered or prescribed by your veterinarian!
